1G mods you can do for (almost) free

[Zikkitzo]

With the lack of information on DSMs I have decided to do some research and try to strike up some information on this form. I have made a list of Legal and track only (AHEM) mods that cost little to no money. Lets start with the street legal ones...

"HACK" the MAF There are several "hack" to the mass airflow meter that will solve a plethora of problems that plague these cars. Take the whole aircan out of the car, and remove the filter. On the intake side, you will see 2 honeycombs. Remove the lower one. Below it, you will see a large plastic screw set up into the bottom of the air canal. Back it out a bit. On the other side of the MAF, there is a star-shaped siliencer, remove it.
(http://www.diamondstarspecialties.com/tips.html)

Remove Ridge in TB Elbow The first generation throttle body elbow has a ridge inside it where it bends, remove it from the car and use a tool such as a dremel or maybe even a file to remove this and smooth the inside out. Make sure to clean all the metal chips out.

Remove BCS Restrictor If you do not have a manual boost controller, you can saftely up the boost about 1-2 psi by removing the restrictor in the boost control solenoid. In the nipple that is perpendicular to the body of the solenoid, you can insert a screw or a drill bit, and then pull out the restrictor. Make SURE not to drill into the body!!!

Verify that WOT is 100% Have someone sit in the car and floor the gas pedal, and then check to see if you can rotate the throttle plate any more by hand. If you can, it could be due to the cable being off (adjust on the back of the intake manifold, 2 bolts) or something like a floor mat keeping the pedal from going lal the way down. Fix this.

Check IC outlet Pipe for Corrosion The intercooler outlet pipe on the older cars has a tendency to corrode and leak out boost. Take the plastic fender liner off the car (take off passenger side wheel), take the intercooler out, and if it has ANY signs of corrosion, coat the entire upper pipe with JB weld.

Open up the Fender Liner You can use a sanding wheel (Dremel, die grinder, etc) to open up the vents in the fender liner behind the intercooler. Some people just cut it out and replace it with a screen, that works too. ALSO, make sure that you have the duct in front of the intercooler in place and that it seals up.

Clean the IC Use a cleaner such as simple green, greased lightning, or gasoline to clean out the inside of the intercooler. It gets filled up with oil over time, which can reduce it's efficiency. Make sure to get it nice and clean, until the water and cleaner comes out clear.

Hack Aircan and Intake Area The stock aircan has a rather restrictive opening, as well as a restrictive path for the air to take. At the least, drill off the rivets holding the snorkel on, and at best chop the front side of the can off. Also, remove the black plastic screen that is behind the headlight and chuck it. Weight savings!
(http://www.vfaq.com/mods/filter-print.html)

Clean Throttle Body Using a throttle body or carb cleaner, clean the throttle plate and the inside of the throttle body. IMPORTANT: make sure to stuff a rag into the holes at the bottom of the TB, or the cleaner will get in there and kill the mechanisms down there. Then, use the can and a rag to clean it all out. When you're done with that, you can start the car with the intake pipe unplugged, and spray a can right into the throttle body. You can also spray the can into any line that sees vacuum at idle.

Check Base Timing Find someone with a timing light, as hook it up as per the instructions. Ground the black timing connector on the firewall behind the battery, and if you have a logger UNPLUG IT. Check to see that the base timing (crank pulley) is set at 5 degrees of advance. If not, loosen and rotate the crank angle sensor until it is.
(http://www.myzero.com/engine/timing.html)
(http://www.plymouthlaser.com/timin.htm)

Valve Cover Vent Breather Replace the hose from the valve cover breather (left side of the VC) to the intake pipe with a simple breather filter and a blockoff on the intake pipe. You can also use a catch can if you like. This keeps oil out of the intake pipes and the intercooler. If you want to do this even better, check out: home.attbi.com/%7Etarryo/kyle/pcv.html

Unplug Clutch Switch Under the dash on the clutch pedal assembly, there is a switch that will only allow the car to be turned on if the clutch is pushed in. Just unplug this so that you can start the car without touching the clutch, it's better for the thrust bearing. The plug is on the front side of the clutch pedal assembly, so that it is only pressed when the clutch is all the way in.

[Zikkitzo]

Now for the not so legal (track only) mods...

Emissions Removal

Since there seems to be a bit of curiosity about removing emmissions stuff, I'm going to dedicate a post to it. This is all tried and true on my 1g, but SOME things may be ok to do on a 2g.

Vacuum Lines There are 4 vacuum lines that come from the top of the throttle body, which then branch out to various solenoids, valves, etc, in order to activate the emissions equipment. These hoses total at something like 20 feet in length, and in an older car they are a prime source for boost leaks.

The process is easy. Pull all 4 off the TB, and remove them. They go down to the thermostat housing, and then come back out the other side, remove those as well. Then they go under the intake manifold and one pops back up to the EGR solenoid, which is next to the fuel pressure solenoid. Remove it all. DO NOT TOUCH THE LINES ASSOCIATED WITH THE FPR AND ITS SOLENOID! After you pull them all out, you only need to block off the four ports on the TB. You can use the ports for a boost gauge or any kind of MAP sensor (only the "p" port shows vacuum, and only on 90-92's), but they are not much good for anything else. I like to use vacuum caps with RTV and a zip tie top plug off each one, but you can use a short length of hose plugged by a bolt with RTV and a zip tie. Just make sure it seals up.

EGR Blockoff Plate After you remove the vacuum lines in the procedure above, the EGR will no longer be activated and de-activaed by the engine, so it is best to block it off. The EGR is located below the throttle body elbow on the intake manifold, right next to the ISC (idle speed control). The ISC has an electrical plug and a wire harness running behind the manifold, the EGR is right next to it and has 2 bolts holding it on. Remove the battery to get in there, and take it off. You will see it has a diamond shaped gasket with several holes in it, you want to replace that with a solid plate with only holes for the bolts. Some people use aluminum soda can material, but I would suggest something stronger, many DSM shops sell them or I can make one for you. Simply replace the original gasket with the blockoff plate, and put the EGR back on. Make sure to torque it down correctly, proper spec is only about 10 ft-lbs!!

Charcoal Cannister The charcoal cannister is built to vent the vapors that build up in the gas tank under certain engine conditions, I believe vacuum only. In a 1g it is located down below the battery, in a 2g I believe it is up in the front driver's side area, or maybe the front passenger's side, I'm not sure. There are three steps to the is process:

REMOVAL: Take the battery out, then take out the battery box, and you might want to take out the bracket that the battery box sits on as well. It has a few bolts holding it to the side of the engine bay. You will then see a big black can on the bottow of the firewall, connected to a small blue valve, with hoses going to the front of the car and back to the gas tank. Pull the can, valve, and all the associated parts out, and chuck them. Re-install the battery.

TANK VENT: Now that the charcoal can is gone, the line to the gas tank is pen to vent into the engine bay. You do not want thius, so you have to go back to the tank to fix it. Over on the passenger side of the top of the tank, there is a hose. This hoes goes over the front of the tank and joins up with the bundle going under the car that contains the fuel line, fuel return line, and I think maybe one or two of the rear brake lines. You want to pull this hose off the gas tank. Buy the smallest fuel filter you can find from your local parts store, and a length of vacuum/fuel line, and pop the new line onto the fuel tank. Put the filter on the other end of the line and tuck it somewhere nder the car, so that the vapors can escape from the tank but nothing dirty can get it. I HAVE NOT had any problems with a gassy smell after doing this, even if the car sits in the garage.

BLOCKOFF: After everything else is done, you have to make SURE to block off the nipple on the intake pipe that the cannister used to connect to. You can do this any way you please, just make sure it seals.

AT this point, you probably don't have either of the hoses connected to the intake pipe(you did do the breather filter, right!?), making it a good time to build a PVC intake pipe for a good power increase.

PCV Blockoff The PCV valve, on the back on the valve cover, allows the crankcase to vent pressure when the intake manifold is in vacuum.. It is supposed to be a check valve to keep boost from entering the crankcase when you pressurize the mani, but it never works on older cars. I like to just get rid of it. It is usually the biggest boost leak older cars (like mine) have, besides loose IC pipe connections and the like.

You have to take the old PCV off, and then open it up but cutting around the base of the nipple. Once you do this, can can seperate the pieces and remove all the things inside, there are 2 springs and a stopper, I believe. You can also take the brass tube off of the end. Put it back together and JB Weld/Weld/Solder it back into one piece, and put it back on the car. Then, run a hose from it to the breather filter, just "T" it into the line from the vent. MAKE SURE to adequately plug up the big port on the intake manifold!! Again, a big vacuum nipple, maybe a light coat of RTV, and a few zip ties outght to do the trick. I personally like to use the post to "power" my boost controller, because it is much larger than the BOV line and I don't like tapping the BOV source anyway.


I did not write this... I got it from another DSM forum. Id suggest this post get stickied so new members (if we get any) wont have to ask about it. Its good information... some which Iv done... some whick Im going to do.

[Zikkitzo]

I pulled this off another forum. This may work on 3SI as well. BTW any mods you do to your car that I post is your business. This is my official disclaimer. I don't recommend doing these mods unless you know what your doing and/or have the money to fix it if somthing breaks. I take no responsiblity for anybody eles car. This is purly informational.

(The following was done on a 90 GSX, so yours may vary)

1: Remove intake tube from turbo, including MAS and air filter can.
You may also want to remove the BOV tube at the BOV. It clears up some
more room. This will expose the OTHER end of the shifter cables - as
opposed to the end in the car ( it seem that when you say short shift mod
everyone thinks of the actual shifter...)

2: Remove cotter pin that goes through the stud on the arm that points
across the car (front wheel to front wheel). The stud will be pointing
right at you. Thats the one you want. ( the other one is pointing at the
passenger tire) To verify, it is the arm that moves when you shift
from first to second. Put the car back in neutral.

3: Remove round end of cable from that stud. I think mine was a bit
hard to get off, the round piece attached to the cable came off the rubber
bushing when I pulled on it because the metal sleeve in the rubber was
corroded to the stud. A little penetrating lube might be in order.

4: This is the part where you have to pay attention. First find a
bolt with THREE nuts that fits nicely into the sleeve in the rubber
bushing. Not too loose but not too tight. A little loose is better than a
little tight. The bolt needs to be to 2 inches long.

5: Get a drill with a drill bit the right size for the bolt. (Sorry I
don't remember the diameter of the bolt) You will be drilling a hole in
the arm that you took the cable off. BUT FIRST...

6: You have to make a decision now...How short do you want it?
The farther away from the stud you drill the hole, the shorter the
throw gets. I drilled mine right by the little twist in the arm. The throw
is VERY short. ( approx. 3 " [1st to 2nd] ! WITH the stock shift knob
which is very long) The problem is I just finished rebuilding the tranny
and replaced both hub/slider assemblies (making the tranny shift notchy
~like new) I can't hit second fast. Good for syncros- bad for racing.
But you dont have to go that short, I just wanted to let you people know
that there is a trade-off. Shorter throw=notchyer feel. I can hit third
with absolutly no problem...even faster that 1-2. Anyway back to the
mod...

7: I suggest you centerpunch your hole first. You don't want the drill
bit to walk off-center of the arm. Also keep in mind ** YOU CAN'T
DRILL THE HOLE SO CLOSE TO THE ORIGINAL STUD THAT THE ROUND END OF THE CABLE
WILL HIT THE STUD WHEN YOU TRY TO PUT IT ON** It needs to be at least
1/2 to 3/4" away from the stud. (mines about an inch and a quarter away)

8: After you drill the hole (it is centered right?) Slide the bolt up
through the arm from the bottom. Put a lock washer (star or split) and a
nut. Tighten that down so now you have another stud to put your cable
end on.

9: Get two large washers. The hole should be the right size for the
bolt, the outer diameter should be the same size as the round end on the
cable. The reason I needed these washers is that since I drilled mine so
far away from the original stud, there was a slight twist applied to the
round end of the cable. (remember mines drilled on the bend in the arm)
The round part of the cable popped off the rubber bushing twice. After
I put the washers on, its been fine. If you don't drill the hole as far
away as I did, you probably don't need them but it doesn't hurt. Put a
washer on the stud, then slide the round cable end/bushing on the bolt,
then another washer. (Bushing sandwich on washer...sad, I know).

10: You should have two nuts left over. The reason for the two nuts
is so you can tighten the nut without putting pressure on the bushing.
Put one nut on and tighten to a point that the bushing is just a wee bit
loose. Move the shift arm back and forth checking the tightness of the
bushing. You want to be sure that it doesn't bind in any gear. When you
have found a good spot, hold the nut with a wrench and tighten the third
nut on to it, thus locking it into place.

11: The stick will now be closer to you in neutral.You might want to
re-adjust your shifter cable ( in the car) so the stick is in the middle.
I didn't. I don't like reaching for the radio if I don't have to.

12: Put back intake tube, BOV tube and filter. Dont forget the
breather hoses.

13: TEST DRIVE!

If all is well, You should have a shorter,more positive feeling
shifter.

A few notes:
I noticed on a 93 2.0 NT talon, the arm seemed a bit longer than
mine ( I have not verified this) Mine is 2 3/4" from the pivot to the
original stud. If it is longer, that would possibly indicate that the shifter
(or the tranny) in the car is designed differently.They would have to
make up for the longer arm somewhere. You might be able to put a late 1g
shifter in a early 1g and get a shorter throw. Anyone know?

The arm you are drilling can NOT be replaced without pulling the
tranny apart (at least I think). So...(discaimer) I do not take any
responsibility for any damage caused by an attemt to do the preceeding
modification. Expressed or implied.

Another thing you might concider, If you remove the original stud,and
drill a hole for your bolt where the original stud was, you can drill
like 3 holes next to each other and make it totally adjustable. Just
remember the note above.

I think thats it. I am not familliar with the 2g tranny so I don't
know if this mod applies. Any questions, feel free to send me e-mail. Also
let me know how you like/dislike it if you do it.

Sorry so long, but you guys asked!

Happy Shifting
Mike Montalvo
90 GSX "GOTBOOST"

[Eric Cameron]

Excellent posts.

[Zikkitzo]

Ok guys... now if your trying to do these mods and your like me you like a picture to go along with it. This should provide all the pictures you need...

members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/

If theres somthing not pictured here that youd like a picture of please email/message me what your trying to do and what youd like a picture of. Ill do my best to help you out.

[Zikkitzo]

So much for attempting a convo...

*BUMP*

Helps get rid of my blunder post...

[Eric Cameron]

Zikkitzo said:

So much for attempting a convo...

*BUMP*

Helps get rid of my blunder post...

[Iceman]

Starting a Conversation?

With whom?

I am sure there are lots of first gen DSM drivers out there, but there ain't a lot of 'em here (yet) Not that there is anything wrong with posting the information, but 90% of the guys here will do what I did, read the posts, say to themselves "isn't that nice" and go on the the next post.

Tip on starting a conversation with lots of participation, don't start it, "OK, here's a question for all you out there driving a '65 fury with automatic trans, and a nitrous kit"

Pick a topic where more people will be knowledgable, and more people will give their $.02

My $.02 ;D

[Eric Cameron]

Ah, you want a conversation….

I thought your posts were excellent and very informative. I also felt there was little (or nothing) I could add to it at this time. Although I don’t agree with Scott’s ’65 Fury reference, I would suggest if you want to strike up a conversation (and I always like talking shop), start with a specific topic as opposed to 250 lines of detail spanning 3 posts.

Again, as I said before, your posts were very informative and I as one of the few DSM’ers here appreciate it.

[Iceman]

I never said they weren't both most excellent and very informative, however, they really didn't apply to a large subset of board users (hence my analogy to the specificity of the fury).

I read them, said "huh, ain't that special" and as Eric said, there wasn't a whole lot left to say.

[Zikkitzo]

I guess that was misworded. I didnt mean starting up a conversation as far as talking back and fourth... when I came to the board it was 2 subjects... A couger with a 4g63t and a Porche with a 4g63t. Nothing pertaining to tweaking or moding. what I guess I should have said was 'I guess I should get some good information about DSMs up here.

Sorry for the miscommunication Scott =P Very astute of you to point that out =)

By the by that blunder post was the topic about vac lines... I just wasn't thinking when I wrote that.

[aberabee]

hey zikkitzo,
just wanted to say thanks for the super cool posts...my main car is a 3s VR, but i also have a 93 GSX i just picked up cheap to mess with. i like being able to see all this info without having to weed through all those damn DSM forums. either way, good stuff.

abe

[Zikkitzo]

All DSM owners should read this: www.dsm.org/archives/1998/02/19980223.txt/24.html

I think it may be plauging my DSM. Ill do more research and if I find any more info Ill post it here.

[Iceman]

This is NOT just a DSM issue... My N/A was having the shifter move... about 1/4 inch forward when accelerating, about 1/4 inch back when engine braking...

I asked the dealer if this was normal at about 50K... he told me that it was....

BULLSHIT!!

It got progressively worse, even popped out of gear a time or two, then while half way between San Antonio and Corpus on I37, I crested a hill at 80 with the cruise control on... when it went to pull power, I figure it popped out of 5, and into reverse.

There was a sound like a gunshot, and then like a cement mixer sound under the hood. Tranny fluid was bleeding everywhere, and there were multiple holes in the housing. When the dealer took the tranny off, it looked like a frag granade had gone off inside the housing.

Before you flame me, that was 5 years ago, before I started mod'ing the N/A and I had no idea where to take it except the dealer (remember, it broke down about 100mi from home)

Dealer cost for an N/A tranny --- $3,600

[Zikkitzo]

That sounds alot like what my Talon is doing... but Im not sure it went into reverse (unless it popped out with ALOT of force) because it doesnt sound like you had the clutch in b/c obviously cruse was on. Im willing to bet your retaining nut fell off and instatly lodged into a gear. Thats just my theory... 3,600 is alot for a FWD trans even new. Is that w/ labor or not?